If Nicolas Gesquiere could choose one superpower, it would be a time travel. He dedicated the autumn collection of 2019 to Louis Vuitton to the 80s, and a season earlier he turned to the gallant 18th century with court outfits in a modern manner. Now, following the example of Edie Slimane, the designer is returning to the origins of the fashion house and the “new bourgeoisie” of the 1900s, the golden age of Parisian fashion.
And although the last decade, designers drew inspiration from era to era, rarely concentrating on the present, they nevertheless understood that nostalgia from the old days should not cross out the spirit of modernity.
But how not to get lost in the stormy sea of nostalgia for the “good old” times, which gave us so much inspiration and at the same time so many restrictions on social rights? Find a balance. Today, each collection raises questions about social issues, talks about sustainability and diversity, inviting models of all sizes, races and ages to the podium.
While Louis Vuitton models walked the runway in dresses reminiscent of the images of suffragists and bourgeois of the early 20th century, the video performance of transgender singer Sophie was shown on a large screen.
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# LVSS20 Exploring the idea of a dress code. @NicolasGhesquiere presented his latest #LouisVuitton Collection at the Cour Carrée of the Louvre in Paris. Watch the show now at louisvuitton.com
The girl began her career in 2013, but discovered her identity only four years later. Sophie refused the interview and preferred anonymity, while her tracks fell into the lists of the best according to the publications of Pitchfork, Dazed & Confused and The Guardian. Fans knew her only as a producer of the songs of Charli XCX, Nicki Minaj, Kendrick Lamar and even Madonna.
Behind the image of a little girl, Sophie was then still 26-year-old Sam – it was his stage alter ego. “They say you're a grown man from Scotland, is that true?” – asked him the leading Air Force Radio, where Sophie answered questions using a synthesized voice. “I caught a little cold,” she replied jokingly.
Sophie revealed her identity only after the transition. Her “debut” took place in 2017 – in the video It's Okay to Cry, the girl made a cuming out and talked about her transgender.
She sang an extended version for the Louis Vuitton show, and French director Woodkid created a video (he also shot the Teenage Dream music videos by Katy Perry and Born to Die by Lana Del Ray). This is not the first time Sophie has collaborated with fashion houses – her track was used in the Kenzo spring-summer 2014 advertising campaign.
Sophie creates dance music, which is good to be sad and to conquer the dance floor: beats, gentle vocals and a bit of electronics made her a transgender pop icon. The Guardian calls her music BDSM-friendly pop, and Sophie herself says that God is a transgender.
Over six years, society has changed beyond recognition, although we ourselves do not notice it. Back in 2013, Sophie said that the personality of a musician always distracts from his work:
“The music is not about where the artist grew up and how he looks. We should use every opportunity to convey our ideas, instead of just saying: “Here is my music and this is how I look.” Nobody cares".
Now the girl speaks boldly about her identity and defends the rights of LGBTQ +. In 2013, such a scenario would be unlikely.
Designers led by Nicolas Geschier feel the spirit of the times and carry it to the podium. Gesquière himself described his collection as a meeting of two centuries: the sunset of the 1900s and the future of the 2000s, which has already come. After all, fashion is a reflection of culture and society, which today is changing in a matter of seconds.
See also: Dandy of our time: Louis Vuitton show was held in the Louvre