Fashion History: 5 innovative solutions by Gilles Sander

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Simplicity and gloss are the invariable codes of the Jil Sander fashion house and the first impressions that arise when you get acquainted with the collections and advertising campaigns of the brand. Jil Sander's ideally feminine and balanced things were and remain stylistically universal, their timelessness captivates fashionistas for decades, and the secret of appeal lies in the philosophy of the brand’s founder Gilles Sander, whose full name sounds like Heidemari Yilin Sander. We understand what the German designer conquered the fashionable public.

Gilles bequeathed to live a simple life and follow her dreams

Thus, not deviating from their principles and ideas. Uncompromising in general was the main feature of Gilles – from her training as a textile designer, she adhered to the concept of functional design, denying decorative excesses. The girl, of course, also was extremely jealous of the quality of the tissues. Heidemar dreamed of creating the perfect outfit for modern working women and was consistently approaching her dream. Gilles managed to work in the American fashion magazine McCalls, then in the cult German gloss Petra, and then open her own boutique and devote herself to creating full-fledged collections. The future favorite of all the fashionistas of the world was inspired by the philosophy of the German school of design Bauhaus, according to which the key to genius was simplicity, functionality and orientation to the essence of things, which can be comprehended through experiment with form.

Gave women minimalism before it became mainstream

Gilles was preoccupied with the idea of ​​a wardrobe for life in the face of rampant acceleration, when industries, offices, offices and exchanges grew like mushrooms after the rain, and women occupied more and more leadership positions. Gilles Sander secretly repeated the revolution in business fashion that Newna made in New York in Europe, creating things for women of a new generation who no longer needed men's clothing in order to legitimize their status and remind others of equal rights. So, in the late 60s – early 70s on the streets of Hamburg, and soon dozens of other cities, there appeared business, self-confident and infinitely elegant women in wide trousers, free from the hips and flowing over the leg.

The calm luxury of the style invented by the designer at first was not understood by wide circles. Gilles designed clothes, inspired by her favorite modernist architecture, choosing fabrics at first glance simple, albeit expensive, and all this did not fit into the turbulent fashion of the mid-70s with its colorful exoticism. In 1975, Gilles took part in the Paris Fashion Week, presenting the collection under the name Jil Sander, and did not meet with enthusiasm. True, in Germany, Jil Sander clothes were already loved and worn – German women of fashion appreciated the practicality and aesthetic functionality faster than French women and American women.

In the 90s, when the fashion moved from a riot of colors to full eclecticism, including both baroque luxury and urban minimalism, a new generation of successful and realized people again preferred the neoconservative style, so Jil Sander’s elegant endurance came in handy. Androgynous, but seductive and sophisticated design of the brand’s clothes fell in love with all the fashionable light. In addition to the name Gilles Sander, the name of Helmut Lang sounded just as loud.

Accustomed fashionistas and the fashion industry to black and white advertising campaigns

Advertising of the brand of the period of the 80s – beginning of the 90s is a real work of photovisual art: in some places semi-blurred, darkened, almost surrealistic images of models evoke fantasies about otherworldly reality, full of glamorous twilight. Also, unlike the overly elegant campaigns of other famous brands, where the models shone with bright make-up and frank images, the heroines of the filming of Jil Sander were natural and laid-back, which looked like the real avant-garde and is still fascinating.

The main goal of Heidemari Yilin Sander was to create such clothes that would emphasize the essence in a person, without paying attention to decor, and she did it. The romantic uniformity, comfort and sophistication laid down in the aesthetics of the brand of Gilles herself (as she called herself, abbreviation of the German Jilin) ​​also captivate other designers who have been working in the brand since the queen of fashion purism left the post of creative director. Raf Simons, and later Luke and Lucy Meyer carefully continued the legacy of the house. Today, Ms. Sander celebrates her 76th birthday, and we continue to love her for her stamina, impeccable taste and sensitivity.

Read also: Jil Sander will become a guest brand of Pitti Uomo 97

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