Demna Gvasalia leaves Vetements own brand. Someone loves him for treads with a lighter-shaped heel, someone hates him for $ 800 DHL shirts. But Vetements left no one indifferent, like the new Balenciaga led by Demna. We recall what one of the main designers of our time taught us.
Make meme out of fashion
Demna Gvasalia proved that the hours spent watching memes on Instagram can be successfully monetized. He sold IKEA 99-cent bags for $ 2,145 and platform crocuses for $ 850. He turned the Bernie Sanders campaign logo into the Balenciaga logo and successfully sold for one thousand dollars what was distributed in America for free as political campaigning. Demne certainly needed his diploma in international economics.
Each of his collections is an irony over the world of fashion, which is so often accused of snobbery. “I founded Vetements because fashion has become boring for me. And, no matter how strange it may be, after Vetements it will never be the same again, ”said Demna.
He taught the fashion world to laugh at himself. Valentino released “ugly” sandals in a collaboration with Birkenstock, Viktor & Rolf showed couture dresses with ironic sayings like “I'm not shy, I just don't like you” and “Sorry for being late – I just didn't want to come.” Love marketing as your neighbor, arm yourself with memes and get ready to conquer the fashion world.
Don't be afraid of oversize
“Overseas is my territory,” the designer said in an interview. “And I'm going to protect her.” Square shoulders, distorted body proportions and XXL size replaced the skinny jeans and tight dresses (which, let's face it, nobody but Kim Kardashian suits).
The trend for large down jackets and jackets, both from a man’s shoulder, owes their popularity to Demne Gvasalia. His collections were invariably attended by long sleeves and huge coats, as if found in grandfather’s wardrobe. The most striking example of an oversize is the $ 9,000 Balenciaga jacket, like Joey’s “Friends”. Do not be afraid to drown in your clothes. At a minimum, this is convenient.
Make a revolution out of every show
Vetements debut show took place in the basement of the famous homosexual club Le Depot. Gvasalia hosted a show in a Chinese restaurant and flea market, and showed a spring-summer 2020 collection at McDonald’s on the Champs Elysees. The designer does not particularly care about the fashion calendar: he organized his shows during the men's and couture Fashion Weeks (to the horror of the Paris Fashion Syndicate) or completely missed the seasons.
Of course, in Balenciaga he cannot afford this. Yes, and why? The immense budgets of the fashion house allow him to carry guests to the future every season.
He still conducts model casting on instagram, often inviting random people to participate in shows along with microinfluencers and models with a not quite model appearance.
Look for inspiration in the past
Demna Gvasalia fell in love with the whole world in post-Soviet aesthetics. He found himself in the right place at the right time: the influence of imperialist China and Russia is growing every year, and the crisis of democracy affects the political stability of Europe. That's why we like the new Balenciaga so much, referring either to the turbulent 80s, or to the stable beginning of the zero.
Demna grew up in Georgia in the 80s and in every sense has seen a lot: from socks with sandals to the war. Injuries of childhood became an inspiration for him, and then a good source of income. Reliving the past, Demna accidentally staged a revolution in the fashion world: Soviet chic was to the taste of Paris, and Cyrillic inscriptions suddenly flooded the streets of megacities around the world.
Demna proved that there was at least one good thing in the Soviet Union: the inexhaustible inspiration of street fashion dictated by the shortage and hype of things from the “decaying West”. What are only shoes with a tracksuit!
Look into your parents wardrobe
A coat with an emphasis on the shoulder lines can be found in mother’s youth wardrobe, as well as floral dresses in the spirit of the latest Balenciaga collections. Dad's leather jacket and tracksuit will conquer instagram without any extra effort. Demna Gvasalia drew inspiration from the streets and made fashionable what used to be considered bad manners, and now – a new suite.
Don't be afraid to copy
We have already learned this lesson: the new is the well-forgotten old. Demna understands this well. His debut Vetements collection refers to the legacy of Martin Marghela: Gvasalia worked at Maison Martin Margiela in the late 2000s, and his staff called him the “spiritual son” of the great designer.
But Margela is not the only source of inspiration. Juicy Couture velor pants and $ 500 merch rock bands appeared in Vetements collections. We already mentioned DHL t-shirts and IKEA bags. Such an approach to intellectual property has put the fashion world at a standstill, and before he managed to react to it, Demna’s things were already sold out.
Luxury is not gold and rhinestones
Remember the year 2016: street fashion invaded Paris, and DHL delivery was difficult to distinguish from fashion insiders. Demna forever changed our idea of design things. The concept of luxury was no longer limited to Chanel tweed jackets and Hermes bags: everything that looks good on Instagram has become fashionable (even if these are Nike sneakers converted to heels).
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