Elena Krygina, a top make-up artist, beauty expert, founder of her own cosmetics brand Krygina Cosmetics, created three ultra-topical wedding makeup specially for Wedding, and also shared tips and professional secrets.

Elena KRYGINA, Top makeup artist, beauty expert, jury member of the Wedding Style & Beauty Awards

ABOUT CURRENT TRENDS

There are several key points in bridal makeup: palette, accents and, of course, relevance. Today, lilac, purple and so-called “dusty” shades with a cold undertone are in trend. At the same time, as for the red color, here, on the contrary, for quite a long time it is the warm tones that have remained relevant, which seem to go against the general scale.

Modern makeup is built around one shade – this is the popular trend: all makeup is one product. And here it is important that the face does not lose volume and looks sculpted, so the intensity of application must be varied: for example, it is denser on the eyes, lighter on the lips and quite lightly on the apples of the cheeks.

Strobing also does not give up – well-drawn highlights allow the face to not look flat, and a slight glow, especially created using the wet technique, gives the feeling of polished porcelain skin. As a highlighter, you can use a metallized pigment, and it is better to apply with a damp brush or sponge.

For wedding makeup, many makeup artists choose matte lipsticks. I appreciate this product for its durability, but it has one big drawback – the image loses sparkle and gloss. Therefore, I use a long-lasting matte pigment with a creamy texture, on top of which I apply glitter for a fashionable glossy effect.

SEASON COLOR

The main advantage of dusty pink shades is that they do all the work for us: for example, they look darker in the crease of the upper eyelid, and lighter in the center of the moving eyelid. It seems as if we used several colors at once, although in fact it is a natural shadow effect, due to which volume is created, and the eyes look more expressive. Another undoubted advantage is the proximity to natural skin tones, thanks to which these colors look so natural.

ABOUT STEREOTYPES IN WEDDING MAKEUP

It is generally accepted that black should not be used in wedding makeup. You can and should! Question: how much? Black can be used to draw the space between the eyelashes – this technique competently emphasizes the shape of the eyes and looks very restrained, or use it to create arrows: while the lower eyelid should remain intact so that the makeup does not look heavy.

False eyelashes, as well as extensions, are absolute anti-trends in 2020. If necessary, it is allowed to use light bunches to add density. Eyebrows should be well-groomed, but not too bright, so as not to attract too much attention – now this is the most common mistake.

Not all persistent tonal means give a dense coverage with a “mask” effect, it is just important to follow the rules for their application. Pay attention to liquid foundation, on the packaging of which you can see the inscription long wear, or “24 hours of durability.” Such products are thinly shaded with a fluffy synthetic brush – the softer the pile, the thinner the coating. At the same time, they mask imperfections well enough and last for a long time. Advice: be sure to fix the tone. I use a fixing spray as a primer to make the foundation fit better on the skin, then I apply a clear fixing powder to the T-zone, and as a final touch, spray again all over my face.

MONOCHROME

This makeup in shades of dusty rose is perfect for those who don’t like to do makeup in their daily life. A romantic surfer girl look especially relevant for a beach wedding. As a rule, makeup starts with tone, but it was important for me not to overload the face, so I just applied the fixing spray. Then I applied a dusty rose-colored pigment to the movable eyelid and added a little chocolate to the outer corner to visually lift it and slightly stretch the eyes. The result is a natural shadow effect, almost invisible. Due to the reddish presence in the shade of dusty rose, many fear that the eyes may look sore. To avoid this, paint a pearl highlight with the help of metallized pigment in the inner corner of the eye and carefully, from the very roots, paint over the eyelashes with black mascara.

In this makeup, I left the lower lashes intact and only slightly combed my eyebrows. I applied the tone locally: around the lips, slightly highlighting the contour, around the wings of the nose and added a little concealer to the under-eye space.

I used the same pigment that I used for the eye makeup to create a subtle blush, and also applied it to the lips over the moisturizing mask. I used a metallic pigment to add a little shine to the cheekbones and set the makeup with a fixing spray to prolong its hold.

SMOKY ICE

Very delicate smoky eyes in lilac tones. There is one secret here: when the eye is open, the coverage of the upper eyelid is equal to the volume of the lower. Therefore, in such a make-up it is very important not to be ashamed and paint over the lower eyelid a little wider to get the effect of large and expressive eyes, and smokey seemed light. With black pigment, I summed up the upper and lower lines of the mucous membrane – so a clear shape appeared in the eye, and the look itself became a little catlike. For lip makeup, I mixed a transparent gloss with a metallic pigment. Despite the fact that our eye makeup is matte, we got a very relevant texture contrast – thanks to this technique, smoky eyes do not look heavy and crystal purity appears in the image. Such a striking image requires a sculpted face, so I adjusted the shape of the nose, making it visually neater, and selected the cheekbones. I also made a correction of the eyebrows, slightly lengthening them.

ARROWS

Makeup with an accent on the arrows, in dusty pink and lilac tones. I drew quite bright graphical arrows, leaving the lower eyelid intact – except for a bit of tinted lashes for volume. To soften the black arrows, I applied a metallized pigment on top of them and on the entire movable eyelid. For the highlights, I used a pearl shade – it perfectly supports dusty pinks and lilacs, and also slightly highlights these colors, making them more complementary to the skin and providing a beautiful glow. I used my favorite shade of Dusty Rose on my lips as well, this time covering it with a sheer gloss. In this case, matte will also look beautiful, so the choice is yours. The graphic nature of this make-up implies a corset dress or a well-defined cut and, of course, the grandeur and formality of the event.

Photo: Galina Makarova.

Author: Anastasia Kokovikhina.