Imagination is what ultimately sets us apart from our evolutionary ancestors. One word is enough to create a whole bunch of ideas and images. For example, pendants. Dumas or D'Artagnan in a hat with feathers? It doesn't matter what first surfaced in your mind, the main thing is that you are instantly transported to France in the 17th century. Lush dresses, flaunting necklines, love affairs and, of course, stunning jewelry.
Thus, "The Three Musketeers" is an exact example of how jewelry art was not only embodied in literature and then in cinema, but also played a connecting thread in it. Now it is difficult to determine exactly why jewelry was worn in the form of pendants from the 17th to the 19th century. Maybe because at that time they simply did not come up with fasteners, and the work of tailors, each time altering diamonds and gold for different dresses, was not appreciated much. One way or another, magnificent products were first sewn onto velvet, silk or other fabric and only then onto clothes. Any decoration can be turned into a pendant, the main thing is to have a suitable texture and color of the fabric.
For example, at the Odessa Film Studio in the distant 70s, masters historically could accurately recreate jewelry. While about the British film "Anna Karenina" so to speak. Obviously, a lady of high society was supposed to wear jewelry, but Leo Tolstoy did not care so carefully about their description. Reading a great work, our imagination copes perfectly with the appearance of Anna. In the film, the British filmmakers needed real items. Moreover, according to actress Keira Knightley, one of Anna's main character traits is her vanity, and the symbolic abundance of expensive jewelry only emphasizes this. Turning to the house of Chanel, they received incomparable things, and only real jewelry was used on the set. The Camélia Poudré diamond necklace, in which Anna appears at the ball and at the opera, is truly luxurious.
However, in the middle of the 19th century, there could be no asymmetry in jewelry. The Art Nouveau earrings from the Cascade collection are incomparable, but the design with elements of back to the nature (the main slogan of the style) has not yet been in circulation even in Paris, especially the beautiful modern-cut diamonds.
But a massive diamond brooch for almost $ 2.5 million, worn on a home dress, even the director Joe Wright raised doubts about its defiant luxury. However, Kira, having entered the image, exclaimed at the rehearsal: "That's why she puts on this brooch – because she is pregnant!" Apparently, in this case, such a bright affish (a large round brooch, which was usually used as a cut fastener) is no longer just a ceremonial decoration, but a symbol of femininity.
The Downton Abbey series is a masterpiece of historical immersion in the era. Ladies wear jewelry from three eras: Victorian, Edwardian and, of course, Art Deco. Everything is mixed – new and inherited by three generations. Secular etiquette is also strictly observed: only after getting married, the Crowley sisters have the right to finally wear tiaras. Each is designed to match the character and are all courtesy of Bentley & Skinner, the "antique shop" supplier to the Queen's court. The jewelry of the infinitely elegant Lady Mary, no matter how chic they look, is always part of the overall ensemble of the costume. No wonder they won the Emmy Award. More modest, but no less stylish jewelry is present in every frame. After the release of the first season of Downton Abbey, the popularity of antique jewelry grew again, and the direction of wedding jewelry appeared as in the Abbey.
However, don't fall for modern fakes! Antiques and vintage things have their own unique charm, it is impossible to recreate it even by the most skilled craftsmen, who worked for many hours on every detail, fastener, setting.
The filmmakers of Breakfast at Tiffany's, starring the unrivaled Audrey Hepburn, did not have to keep up with the relevance of the decorations, or the relevance of the era. Its role in the history of fashion development is enormous. (By the way, at first the producers invited Marilyn Monroe to act, but she refused.) This is a modest black Givenchy dress, four strands of large pearls and, of course, the participation of the Tiffany jewelry house. Seeing him for the first time, you realize that even the palette of pastel colors in the frame leans towards the delicate turquoise, obviously the family color of Tiffany. The Tiffany brand is still a symbol of style, and its influence on modern pop culture has not waned. Not so long ago, Ariana Grande in the song 7 rings in the first line mentions this film.
Another heroine with controversial life principles, but with impeccable taste is Sharon Stone in Martin Scorsese's cult film "Casino". The bright and catchy style of the Italian house Bvlgari perfectly suited the chic image of the Las Vegas star. Legend has it that Sharon kept most of the jewelry for herself after filming. We can say that Italian jewelry played a supporting role in the film. To get the hand of his beloved, the hero of Robert De Niro brings the woman of his dreams on the trays the entire window of the Bvlgari jewelry store. Having spread this wealth on a huge bed, Stone's heroine looks in agreement and says the key phrase: "Do you think if I put it on all at once, it will be overkill?" Sharon Stone was nominated for an Oscar, and yellow gold and multi-colored tourmalines in a bracelet and chic fish earrings will forever go down in fashion history. A brilliant film from every point of view.
However, let's leave product placement and turn to pure art. "Garnet Bracelet" by Alexander Kuprin is a small work, the whole essence of which rests on an inexpensive but very important gift to the main character, a young and, of course, insanely beautiful princess Vera Nikolaevna. The pomegranate bracelet is described in detail by the author and, even according to him, is of little value. Meanwhile, this is a sign of an unrequited and ardent feeling, of which only a poor youth of the romantic 19th century was capable. In 1964, the brilliant director Abram Rohm made a film of the same name in the leisurely manner of the time, impeccably observing every monologue and every movement. But this is one of those cases where the imagination paints the story differently, and the cinema does not convey the full power of the work.
Detectives are a separate area of literature and cinema, where jewelry is the basis of the plot. Only in the series about Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Watson there are several of them: "Beryl Diadem", "Treasures of Agra". Modern cinema has addressed this topic more than once.
"Ocean's 8" is a brilliant film in the best traditions of Hollywood! Cartier played itself, providing stunning jewelry and its New York boutique on 52nd Street for filming. At the center of the action is the necklace named in the film after Jeanne Toussaint in honor of the beloved Louis Cartier, the legendary woman, the first art director of the French House.
The necklace did exist, but it was originally masculine. It was made in 1931 for Maharaja Navanagar. The total weight of white and colored diamonds was almost 500 carats! According to Jacques Cartier, it was the most magnificent cascade of colored diamonds ever. For the film, Cartier recreated it from archival blueprints, reducing the overall size by 15 percent to fit Anne Hathaway's figure. The best Parisian craftsmen worked on it for eight weeks, so that even on close-ups the necklace looked like a High Jewelry piece. In addition to him, a keen eye will spot many other Cartier jewelry in the frame.
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TEXT: Alexandra Ivanova